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photoFrom the land of the Cyclops Ulysses came to the kingdom of Aeolus, custodian of the winds, who welcomed him and his companions. Homer's description of the island of Aeolia and the other geographical evidence led many scholars to identify it with MALTA, for seen from afar its southern shores with their towering, sharp, bronze-green rocks give the impression of a floating island. Aeolus decided to help Ulysses return to Ithaca. He put all the winds in a wineskin, giving strict orders not to open it, and left only the west wind, Zcphyrus, free to guide Ulysses directly to Ithaca. But shortly before reaching their destination Ulysses' sailors opened the leather bag and the winds rushed out. They whipped up a storm that blew Ulysses and his companions back to Malta. Angry Aeolus sent them away and they continued their voyage towards the western tip of Sicily, to the land of the Laestrygonians.

In the Tyrrhenian Sea, north of Sicily and south of Naples, are some small islands which are called after the main one the Lipari islands or the Aeolian islands. Some scholars maintain that Lipari or Stromboli is Aeolia. But the Acolia described by Homer bears little resemblance to these islands. Nor could Ulysses have arrived offshore of Ithaca from Lipari and Stromboli with the aid of Zephyrus, the west wind, as Homer describes, and then return to Aeolia, because the whole of southern Italy and the Straits of Messina fie between these islands and Ithaca. There is an archaeological museum on Lipari, with some exhibits referred to in the Odyssey. Lipari and Stromboli with its volcano are interesting places to visit.

Laestrygonia was Ulysses' next stop, northwest of Malta. Scholars place it on the western edge of Sicily, at MOZIA (8) near Trapani. There the Laestrygonians, fierce giants, destroyed all Ulysses' ships except his own.

The winds led Ulysses in his sole ship northeast to Aia, the land where the sorceress Circe dwelt. Lying between Rome and Naples, this place is still called MONTE CIRCEO (9). Once Ulysses managed to restore his companions to human form, for Circe had transformed them into swine, he descended to Hades to learn from the seer Teiresias when he would reach home. Italian scholars locate the entrance to Hades and the Acherousian Lake at Lake Averno near Naples.

A lake called Acherousia, a river still called Acheron and a Necromanteion (Oracle of the Dead) exist in Greece, near Parga on the mainland opposite Corfu, and are well worth a visit. Proceeding upstream from the estuary of the Acheron, either by a small boat or by land, one arrives at the river's sources and the ruins of the Necromanteion, an especially interesting journey and a unique experience.

From Circe Ulysses travelled southwards, bound to the mast of his ship, and with his companions' ears blocked with wax, he passed in front of the Sirens, who are thought to have lived on the GALLI ISLETS (10) in the bay of Naples. Further south he tried to pass between the terrible Scylla and Charybdis, at the STRAITS OF MESSINA (11) between Italy and Sicily. From there in the mist, the winds and the tempest, tossed by the waves, with a few companions and his ship Ulysses was cast ashore in the kingdom of Helios, at Thrinakia in Sicily, today's TAORMINA (12). There his companions disobeyed him and slaughtered the sacred cows of Helios, invoking the wrath of Zeus.

On leaving here Ulysses' ship was caught in a storm sent by the enraged Zeus. The vessel sank, drowning all his companions. All alone and shipwrecked, he came to rest on the island of the immortal nymph Calypso, Ogygia, considered to be the small island of GOZO (13) just north of Malta.

Ulysses stayed with Calypso for eight years, until the gods of Olympus decided he had been punished enough by Poseidon and Zeus. When Calypso announced to him that the gods would allow his return to Ithaca, he left Ogygia on a raft. Exhausted, he eventually reached Scheria, the island of the Phaeacians, present-day CORFU (14). There he recounted his adventures to Alcinous, the king, and his daughter Nausicaa, and there his peregrinations ended. Alcinous provided him with a swift ship and sent him to his native ITHACA Ulysses returned at last, after an absence of twenty years.

That was, according to the most plausible possible approach, the voyage of Ulysses, the Odyssey.

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